Tag Archives: Drink

WAKE ME UP AND…

The following is suitable for adults only and is written in memory of someone more influential in my life than Bowie and who created more magic than Paul Daniels.

This is about the Espresso Martini and the man who created it, Dick Bradsell. Read on (or skip to the end if you must) and the perfect recipe shall be revealed.

Amongst my friends it’s a drink very much of the now, though it was created in the 80s by the inimitable Bradsell.

Bradsell was a seminal part of London’s cocktail scene and was credited by the San Francisco Chronicle as having “single-handedly changed the face of the cocktail scene in London in the 1980s”, whilst The Observer wrote of him as the “cocktail king.”

He was, of his time, compared to celebrity chefs and created cocktails for the likes of Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin at the exclusive (and now closed) London Colony Club. He even played a gangster in a Christopher Nolan film.

This legend of the bar scene sadly passed away in February 2016. But his spirit and his magic will live on, in the Espresso Martini in particular.

So now take yourself back to 1984 and imagine the big shoulder pads and even bigger hair at a busy and popular London cocktail haunt…

The story goes that a beautiful and world-famous model walks in to the Soho Brasserie and asks Dick to make her something that will “wake me up and fuck me up”.

Dick eyed the newly installed espresso machine at the bar, drew a bottle of vodka, a little sugar syrup and a dash of espresso, then mixed and shook them hard over ice. The Espresso Martini was born.

2_espressomartini

Now this seminal cocktail has endured many variations. Some, if not most, I personally consider horrific. A great cocktail – like the very best of anything – is all about simplicity and top notch materials.

The key here is to use really, really, good fresh coffee. Certainly ground and brewed on the spot. If you only have supermarket brand ground espresso of indeterminate age, then please don’t proceed. I beg you. No amount of Kahlua (or worse) can make up for a properly good espresso; and you will likely ruin your experience of this drink forever.

I also recommend a good quality, clean vodka. Potato-based vodka works better, for a reason no-one can explain. So here I recommend our local and world-class distillery: Chase, up the road from my castle tower, in Herefordshire and the land of potatoes.

First, make sure you have prepared and planned before making anything. This means chilled and appropriate glassware: martini glasses are traditional, though I and others do find small wine goblets work just as well. Also have ice, very frozen and not ‘wet’ from leaving it lying around the kitchen from your earlier gin and tonics.

Ready? Here we go:

Two measures of good vodka (we recommend Chase but anything clean and around 40% alcohol will suffice);

One measure of freshly made, good quality espresso;

Half a measure of sugar syrup (this can easily be made by mixing 2:1 water and sugar over a low heat until dissolved and then cooled).

Half fill your shaker with large lumps of very cold ice (see above) and pour in ingredients. The secret here is to allow  plenty of space to shake the contents. Larger chunks of ice will not melt so readily, so preserving the integrity of the cocktail.

My measures are based on a single shot or 25ml in modern terms, per serving. You can of course multiply this for multiple glasses – though note the importance of allowing space for the contents to get shaken with enough air .

Shake hard and shake for as long as you can bear. If you are using a metal shaker, it will get very, very cold. This is key as the shaking will help release the latent gases in the coffee. This is also why using good quality fresh coffee is so important.

Pour in to cold glasses.

chase2

Garnish with a twist of lemon, mint leaf, coffee bean or whatever you fancy. I personally like mine bare, without adornments.

You will find a creamy, light brown liquid issues forth in to the glasses. Don’t worry, this is just how it should look!

Leave for a minute or three and the mixture will settle, leaving a beautifully creamy, sweet top and a darker and delicious liquid below.

It’s that simple.

Enjoy and raise a toast to Dick, that super model and friends. With this cocktail done properly, the latter will love you forever and Dick will no doubt be looking down, smiling at you, from the great cocktail bar in the sky.

Chase Shake 2

Footnote and Links:

Great coffee can be ordered direct from Wales’ upcoming and award-winning roastery (though I may be biased as I co-founded it): Black Mountain Roast.

To find out more about Chase Vodka visit them here. They are lovely people and do tours of their distillery too, that I can thoroughly recommend.

For more general musings on cocktails, martinis and how to make them have a read through of my other post: Breakfast Martinis and Battlements.

Advertisements

HAY PEAR FIX

With spring surely sprung, it’s now getting just the right weather for evening cocktails on the castle lawns, looking out towards to the Black Mountains change their rainbow colours as the sun sets…

Here’s another favourite, you will have for forgive it being out of season!

Hay Pear Fix

2 measures Smoked Chase Vodka
1 measure Extra Dry Vermouth
1 measure British Poire Liqueur
1/4 measure lemon juice
1/4 measure Coedcanlas Number 8 Maple Syrup

Mix and shake until ice cold, serve into chilled martini glasses with a slice of Williams pear.

Alternatively, substitute the liqueur for muddled Williams pears and add a little more vodka.

Enjoy irresponsibly!

Breakfast Martinis and Battlements

After a happy summer of house guests, tall tales and long evenings that have, on occasion, drifted through to first light, there are two alcoholic creations of mine that have never failed to sustain the laughter and merriment at any hour.

But before imparting the secrets of these treasured gifts, it’s essential to understand a little of their character and temperament; as one might take time to find out a little of a new friend before inviting them to one’s weekend house party.

It’s important that everyone gets on; or you’ll find need of the rarest of things in the country, a taxi on a Sunday afternoon, when someone gets over-tired and needs to go back to London early.

The first thing to remember when making any cocktail are the words given to me some years ago by the head barman at Claridges, after several gin and tonics infused a conspiratorial conversation on what makes a perfect drink:

“A good cocktail should be very alcoholic with something strong, something weak, something bitter and something sweet, combined so that you don’t taste the alcohol, thus ensuring drunkenness ensues quickly”.

This sage advice has stood me in good stead. It should you too. Memorise those words to heart and life will get a lot better from hereon in.

Indeed, I’ve found that understanding the soul of a cocktail and sharing its love, will open doors and take you places others might only dream of.  Invitations to dine on yachts, recording hip-hop tracks in South Central LA at 2am or even being served home-made pistachio ice cream by a clown on a bike in the middle of the Nevada desert, all become very real possibilities.

To this end, on my travels I always, but always, pack a small travel cocktail set consisting of a shaker that once belonged to Evelyn Waugh and some small silver hunting cups that didn’t. They don’t take up too much space nor attract unwanted attention when one’s hand luggage is searched for nail scissors the umpteenth time at the airport.

These essentials can be matched with local liquor and ingredients any time needed; once shaken and presented I guarantee you will make new friends instantly and usually the right sort of friends.

One of the few advantages of the modern age is that ice can be purchased from many shops or, if you must, a supermarket. A cocktail and especially a martini MUST be served ice cold. This applies equally to the glasses. So keep them in the freezer if you can. One can always replace the frozen peas, but it’s hard to come back from the gathered frowns of serving warm cocktails.

The silver hunting cups are thus ideal as they seem to chill instantly with cold liquid without warming one’s elixir. A scientist can likely explain why. They also hold just the right amount for impromptu tastings in deserts or country lanes.

Now strictly speaking a martini is not a cocktail. A cocktail is shaken, whereas a true martini is stirred. Unless you are at a bar in an Ian Fleming novel, in which case the only acceptable drink is actually a Vesper (a martini with the addition of a squeeze of lemon juice and a dash of sugar syrup or gomme as the French call it).

However, I think it’s as much the style as the literal definition of a martini that counts.

So mine tend to be referred to as martinis, with plenty of additions to the base of gin or vodka and vermouth. Noel Coward would likely give me a very hard stare as his method for making a martini was to fill a glass with ice cold gin and wave it generally in the direction of Italy (where they make the best vermouth).

A note on the ingredients concerns the garnish: there seems to be an airborne virus, no doubt being spread by affordable air travel from the Americas, which makes people think accessorising a martini with olives is a good idea. It isn’t. Except perhaps if you are celebrating your arrival in to New York on the QEII and even then I am not so sure.

Stick to a twist of lemon peel (unwaxed) or something similar, ideally from one of the ingredients you’re using.

Before imbibing your first martini of the day, also take heed of the wise adage from Walter Mitty author, James Thurber:

“One martini is alright, two is too many and three is not enough.”

However, do not be alarmed or dissuaded by any of the above from diving in with heart and liver to making martinis or whatever you want to call them!

The only mishaps that are likely to ensue  through enthusiastic experimentation is a hangover greeted by a kitchen of empty gin and vodka bottles and a lasting, if blurred, memory of happy shenanigans the night before.

I’ve learned that keeping a note on the back of an envelope, as one goes through the evening,  making ever more daring advances in to the drinks larder, saves one the befuddled embarrassment of asking one’s guests “what exactly did we drink last night?”

By now you may be thirsty and dying to rush off and make a martini. I certainly am as I write this in the half-glow of a winter’s morn.

So here is your reward for making it this far, two tower stalwarts that have produced many a smile both at sunset and sunrise here at the castle:

Battlement Martini:

This started off as a favourite when I lived in the city: basically a vesper matching the grass-infused vodka with lime juice and sugar syrup to balance the tartness (and soften the alcohol). It has since evolved in to something that, in truth, barely resembles a martini except in the manner in which it is served. And its effect.

Using mandarin juice, freshly squeezed ideally, should provide the sweetness to balance the limes. My measures are usually the equivalent to a pub-double but vary according to what measuring devices I have to hand at the time.

As you might by now have gathered, cocktail making is an art and not a science. So go with your heart, not your mind and experiment until happy…

6 mandarins, squeezed and filtered for pulp-free juice ( a tea strainer will do perfectly well)
2 limes, ditto.
8 measures of Zubrowka vodka, maybe a little more if feeling cheeky or you’ve lost count.
4 measures of Campari.
2 measures of Martini Rosso.
1-2 measures of Roses Lime Cordial (to taste).

I find mixing everything together and then adding ice is not traditional bar etiquette, but it allows one to get a feel of the taste before the flavours get too chilled . Also, the ice has less time to melt before serving.

Find a large cocktail shaker and pour everything in. Add ice. Shake until the shaker is too cold to hold.

Pour into ice cold cocktail glasses and garnish with circular slice of mandarin. You should get six to eight decent servings from the above measures.

We drink this on the castle battlements as the sun sets and the Brecon Beacons turn a soft pink, then to the exact colour of the red sandstone and the magical concoctions being drunk.

The Breakfast Martini:

The lesser-travelled brother of the Battlement Martini, this variation came from a Sunday morning when going to church was abandoned amidst hangovers and protests from city atheists.

In need of some other form of inspiration and lacking the ingredients to make a full battlement drink (and wanting to hide from my slight shame at missing church by staying indoors) this lighter, easier breakfast cocktail was created.

It somehow feeds the soul better than a Bloody Mary; and restores one’s guests to smiles more quickly. On sunny Saturday mornings it’s rather jolly to serve on the lawn in pyjamas. I find striped ones work best  with this drink.

Try it between first and second breakfasts.

One small note on the Chase Marmalade Vodka: this is distilled locally by potato hero James Chase; so there always seems to be a bottle to hand at the castle. However any reasonable quality, clean tasting vodka will do. You can try adding a dash of Cointreau in this case, if you want a hint of something slightly sweeter and a touch more alcoholic.

4-6 oranges, squeezed and filtered for pulp-free juice.
2 limes, ditto.
4 measures of Chase Marmalade Vodka
2 measures of dry vermouth.
Sugar syrup/lime cordial to taste.

As above: mix, shake and pour in to ice cold glasses. If like me you’ve failed to wash them up and put them in the freezer from the night before, an easy way to chill the glasses is to put ice and water in them and leave them for a few minutes. Throw out the contents before pouring the drink into them.

The above seems to work well for four thirsty hungover souls. Again, remember to experiment with quantities and even ingredients (keeping in mind the words from Claridge’s barman to balance everything).

Now go, shake, drink and make the world a merrier place!